We have been traveling to Bali for well over a decade. There is no place like it, and each year we are sad when we have to leave. Visit our Bali photo gallery to view the beauty and artistry that has led to this island being called the 'Island of the Gods', the 'Land of Milk, and Honey', 'Paradise on Earth'. And join us for our next Yoga in Bali, Yoga Retreat.   

Here are some basic details provided by the Lonely Planet (1999), along with my comments noted by (....).

Bali is so picturesque that you could be fooled into thinking it was a painted backdrop. Rice paddies trip down hillsides like giant steps. Volcanoes soar through the clouds. The forests are lush, and tropical. And the beaches are lapped by the warm waters of the Indian Ocean.

Though the postcard paradise gloss has been manufactured, and polished by the international tourist industry rather than by the Balinese themselves - who don't even have a word for paradise in their language. (This matters not. as Bali lives up to this image. And, strong economic recovery since the Bali bombing is quite evident.)  

When to Go

Just considering the weather, the cooler dry season from April to October is the best time to visit Bali. The rest of the year is more humid, more cloudy and has more rainstorms, but you can still enjoy a holiday.

There are also distinct tourist seasons which affect the picture. The European summer holidays bring the biggest crowds - July, August and early September are busy. Accommodation can be tight in these months and prices are higher.

From Christmas until the end of January, airfares to/from Australia are higher and flights can be booked solid. Many Indonesians also visit Bali around Christmas. Outside these times Bali has surprisingly few tourists, and there are plenty of empty hotel rooms and free tables in restaurants.

Balinese festivals, holidays, and special celebrations occur all the time, so don't worry about timing your visit to coincide with local events. Just make some inquiries when you arrive, and be prepared to travel around the island.

Events

Apart from the usual western calendar, the Balinese also use two local calendars, the Hindu saka, and the wuku. The wuku calendar, which is used to determine festival dates, uses 10 different types of weeks between one and 10 days long, all running simultaneously!

The intersection of the various weeks determines auspicious days. It's impossible to work it out yourself: when you arrive in Bali, go to a tourist office and ask which festivals and celebrations are coming up. Try to get to at least one.

The Galungan Festival, Bali's major feast, is held throughout the island, and is an annual event in the wuku year. During this 10-day period all the gods come down to earth for the festivities, and barongs (mythical lion-dog creatures) prance from temple to temple, and village to village. The last and most important day of the festival is Kuningan. Galungan took place in April, and November in 1998, and in June in 1999.

Nyepi is the major festival of the saka year - it's the last day of the year, and usually falls towards the end of March, or the beginning of April. The day before is set aside as a day of purification across the island. The night before, evil spirits are noisily chased away with cymbals, gongs, drums and flaming torches.

On Nyepi itself, everyone stays quietly at home, making no noise, using no lights and doing no cooking. The idea is that when evil spirits descend, they are fooled into thinking that Bali is uninhabited, and leave the island in peace for another year.

Kuta Bay

Including the two beach sites of Kuta and Legian, this area is a major drawcard for travelers, offering cheap accommodation, Western food, great shopping, surf, sunsets and riotous nightlife. Although it's fashionable to disparage Kuta for its rampant development, low-brow nightlife, and crass commercialism, the cosmopolitan mixture of beach-party hedonism, and entrepreneurial energy can be exciting. It's a tourist gold-rush town with a get-rich-quick mentality, and a planning horizon to match.

But it's not dull either, and the amazing growth is evidence that a lot of people still find something to like in Kuta. It's still the best beach on Bali, with the only surf which breaks over sand instead of coral. Lots of cheap accommodation is available, and there's a huge choice of places to eat. Shops and *hawkers offer everything from fake flim-flammery - laid out in boxes that open like jaws as you approach - to genuine antiques offered with a considerably softer sell.

(When we were there October/November 2001, street stalls had been banned from the streets. Those this does continue, it is not as bad as in India, or other places I have traveled.)

Even the tourists themselves have become a tourist attraction, with visitors coming from Java to ogle the topless bathers, and from other resorts to tut-tut at the tackiness of it all. And, despite all the excesses, away from the traffic-clogged streets, Kuta is still a village: a place of quiet compounds, and narrow alleys where devotional offerings are placed in front of houses, and neighbors emerge in the coolness of the evening to gossip in the street.

Behind the beaches, labyrinthine roads and alleys lead back to the most amazing clutch of hotels, restaurants, bars, food stalls and shops. The renowned Poppies Gang, running directly back from Kuta Beach, is where most of the quieter, inexpensive hostels, and restaurants are located. Cheap beachfront accommodation is available in Legian; the lanes running parallel to the beach are the best places to start trawling for a decent bed.

(When we stay near, or on the beach, we stay in the areas of Legian, Seminyak, and Canggu.)

Kuta Bay is in the south of Bali, about 10km (6mi) southwest of Denpasar. Nearby, to the north is Sanur, an upmarket alternative to Kuta; Nusa Dua, to the south, is an upmarket alternative to Sanur. Ulu Watu, on the southern tip of Bali, is the island's most famous surfing spot.

Denpasar

The capital of Bali has been the focus of much of the growth and wealth on the island over the last quarter of a century. It now has all the bustle, and confusion one associates with the fast-growing cities of Asia. While the traffic, noise and pollution make it a difficult city to relish, Denpasar still retains pleasant, tree-lined streets and gardens, and is very much part of the 'real' Bali, given that tourists generally give it a wide berth.

The Bali Museum consists of an attractive series of separate buildings, including examples of both palace and temple architecture. The exhibits themselves are not always well presented, but there are enough arts and crafts, and everyday items displayed to make it worthwhile. The tiny cane cases for transporting fighting crickets are pretty special. The Abiankapas arts centre houses a collection of modern painting and woodcarving. Dancing groups, and gamelan orchestras regularly perform here, mostly for the benefit of tourists.

Denpasar is in the south of Bali, about 10km (6mi) northeast of Kuta

Ubud

Situated in the hills 20km (13mi) north of Denpasar, Ubud is the serene cultural centre of Bali.

(Each year I've noticed that Ubud is growing into a more posh, expensive and sophisticated town. 10 years ago the streets were literally dirt. There was no internet access. And, only a few restaurants other than Warangs local places to eat. Now you can find everything. )

Extensive development in recent years has meant that Ubud has engulfed a number of nearby villages, although these have retained their distinct identities. Head off in any direction and you're in for an interesting walk to a secluded craft hamlet, through the rice paddies or into the dense Monkey Forest, just south of the town centre.

In Ubud itself, the Puri Lukisan Museum displays fine examples of all schools of Balinese art in a beautiful garden setting. There are several other quality galleries such as Museum Neka, which features work of some Western artists who have painted in Bali, and Agung Rai Gallery, a commercial operation which also houses a small, but important, permanent collection.

The homes of influential Western artists Walter Spies and Rudolf Bonnet, who played key roles in transforming Balinese art from the purely decorative, can also be viewed. Ubud is a good place to see Balinese dancing and hear Balinese music, and it has some of the finest restaurants on the island.

Gunung Batur

The volcanic cone of Gunung Batur and the lake, which fills half of the surrounding caldera, form one of Bali's most spectacular landscapes. Climbing Batur (1717m/5631ft) to see the sunrise is a magnificent experience, but be prepared for damp, cold and cloudy conditions and some aggressive souvenir sellers. Gunung Batur is in northern Bali, approximately 35km (22mi) north of Ubud.

Pejeng

The Pejeng region around Ubud hides some of Bali's most ancient monuments, and relics. Set in the bottom of a lush green valley surrounded by terraced rice paddies are the 10 impressive rock-cut shrines of Gunung Kawi. The shrines are carved out of the rock face in imitation of actual statues - in a similar fashion to the great rock-cut temples of Ajanta and Ellora in India. Less spectacular, but equally important, are the rock carvings at Yeh Pulu, the Pura Samuan Tiga temple, and Goa Gajah (the elephant cave) - all just a couple of kilometres east of Ubud. The best way to access these sites is to catch a bemo from Ubud, or rent a mountain bike.

Tenganan

The ancient village of Tenganan, inland from the east coast port of Padangbai, can only be reached by motorbike, or on foot. It's a walled Bali Aga village, busy with unusual customs, festivals and practices. It's the centre for the weaving of the little-seen double ikat cloth, and ancient versions of gamelan and accompanying dances are performed here. The nearby towns of Amlapura and Tirtagangga are known for their decaying water palaces - relics of the power of the Balinese rajahs - which are surrounded by beautiful terraced rice paddies.

Bali Barat National Park

The Bali Barat National Park covers nearly 20,000ha (49,400ac) of Bali's western tip and 7000ha (17,290ac) of coral reef, and coastal waters. Most of the natural vegetation in the park is coastal savanna with deciduous trees which become bare in the dry season. Over 200 species of plants inhabit the various environments.

Animals include black monkeys, leaf monkeys, and macaques; Java, barking, sambar and mouse deer; squirrels, wild pigs, buffalos, iguanas and pythons. The bird life is prolific, with many of Bali's 200 species represented, including the striking Bali starling. The park's attractions include hot springs, uninhabited Deer Island (which has great diving) and guided jungle treks.

The park's headquarters are at Cekik, near the port of Gilimanuk. Frequent bemos, and buses shuttle between Cekik and Gilimanuk, which is connected to Denpasar by bus and to Java by ferry.

History

There are few traces of Stone Age people on Bali, although it's almost certain that the island was inhabited very early in prehistoric times. Nor do we know much about Bali during the period when Indian traders brought Hinduism to the Indonesian archipelago.

The earliest written records are inscriptions on a stone pillar near Sanur dating from around the 9th century AD. Hindu Java began to spread its influence into Bali in the first half of the 11th century, when the rock-cut memorials at Gunung Kawi were sculpted.

The Javanese Singasari dynasty conquered Bali in 1284, but when it collapsed shortly afterwards Bali regained its autonomy and the Pejeng dynasty, centred near modern-day Ubud, rose to great power. The Pejeng king was defeated by the great Majapahit dynasty in 1343 and Bali was brought back under Javanese influence.

As Islam took hold in Java in the 15th century, the Majapahit kingdom collapsed and many of its intelligentsia moved to Bali. They included key priests who were credited with introducing many of the complexities of Balinese religion. Javanese artists, dancers and musicians also sought sanctuary in Bali, and the island experienced an explosion of cultural activity.

The first Europeans to set foot on Bali were Dutch seamen in 1597. Setting a tradition that has prevailed to the present day, they fell in love with the island and, when the ship's captain prepared to set sail, several of his crew refused to come with him.

By the early 1600s the Dutch had established trade treaties with Javanese princes and had wrestled control of the spice trade from the Portuguese. They were, however, more interested in profit than culture and hardly gave Bali a second glance.

In the early 18th century, as local rule in Bali began to fracture, the Dutch began muscling in using the tried and tested divide-and-rule policy. They used Balinese salvage claims over shipwrecks as a pretext to land military forces in northern Bali in 1846. Teaming up with the Sasaks of Lombok to defeat the rajahs of Bali proved a bad tactic when the Sasaks changed their minds and slaughtered the Dutch.

This incensed the Dutch so much that they invaded Bali with a heavy military force and severed Bali's control of its smaller neighbour. With the north under Dutch control and ties with Lombok severed, the south of Bali was not going to remain autonomous for long. In 1904, another salvage dispute resulted in Dutch warships appearing off Sanur.

It took Dutch troops five days to reach the outskirts of Denpasar. Surrounded by superior forces, Balinese royalty and religious leaders decided to take the honourable path of a suicidal puputan - a fight to the death - rather than surrender.

First the palaces were burnt, then dressed in their finest jewelery and waving golden daggers - the rajah led the royalty and priests out to face the Dutch and their modern weapons.

The Dutch begged the Balinese to surrender, but their pleas went unheard and wave after wave of Balinese nobility marched forward to their death. In all, nearly 4000 Balinese died.

As other local kingdoms capitulated or were defeated, the entire island came under Dutch control and became a part of the Dutch East Indies. There was little development of exploitative plantation economy on Bali, and common people noticed very little difference between rule by the Dutch and rule by the rajahs. Despite the long prelude to colonization, Dutch rule over Bali was short-lived; Indonesia soon fell to the Japanese in WWII.

At the end of WWII, the Indonesian leader Sukarno proclaimed independence, but it took 4 more years to persuade the Dutch that they were not going to get their colony back. In a virtual repeat of the puputan nearly half a century earlier, a Balinese resistance group was wiped out in the Battle of Marga in 1946.

In 1949, the Dutch finally recognized Indonesia's independence. In 1965, an attempted coup blamed on communists led to Sukarno's downfall. General Suharto - the current leader of Indonesia - suppressed the coup, and emerged as a major political figure.

The Communist Party was outlawed and a wave of anti-communist reprisals followed. On Bali, local communists were perceived as a threat to traditional values and the caste system because of their calls for land reform and an end to social repression. Religious traditionalists took advantage of the post-coup hysteria and led a witch hunt against communist sympathizers.

Mobs rounded up suspected communists and clubbed them to death. The Chinese community was particular victimized before the army stepped in and restored order, but no-one on Bali was untouched by the killings. An estimated 50,000 to 100,000 people were killed, at a time when the island's population only totaled 2 million.

Suharto established himself as president, and under his government Indonesia looked to the West for alliances and investments. On Bali, economic growth and dramatic improvements in infrastructure were achieved by hugely expanding the tourist industry. This also resulted in the displacement of local populations and disruption of many traditional communities. Many Balinese feel the tourist industry is dominated by Javanese interests and that locals have too little control over its growth.

Getting There & Away

Most international visitors arrive by air, either directly or via Jakarta, though island hoppers can catch frequent ferries from the neighboring islands of Java and Lombok. There are direct flights to Jakarta and Bali from numerous European capitals, the cheapest are generally found in London. Flights from the US often go via Japan, Korea, Taiwan or Hong Kong.

There are also direct flights from all Australian cities. The departure tax on international flights is about US$12. Be sure to reconfirm bookings at least 72 hours before departure. Bali is well connected to most of Indonesia and has direct domestic flights to Java, Lombok, and outlying islands on a daily basis. Fares have increased considerably in recent years but are still good value. Domestic departure tax is also around US $12.

A ferry shuttles between the west Balinese port of Gilimanuk, and Ketapang in eastern Java. Boat/bus combination tickets between Denpasar, and Javanese cities can be purchased. Ferries between the eastern Balinese port of Padangbai, and Lembar on the west coast of Lombok depart every few hours, 24 hours a day. While a few ferries link Bali with other Indonesian islands.

Getting Around

Transport from Ngurah Rai international airport, 2.5km (1.5mi) south of Kuta, is quite simple. Choose from an official taxi counter, where you pay a set price in advance, or walk across the airport car park and hail a metered cab.

Another option is to get a taxi from the airport to Bemo Corner in Kuta for a fixed rate, and then get a metered taxi or a chartered bemo (minibus) to a more distant destination - this should save a few thousand rupiah. The impecunious (and lightly laden) can walk straight up the road to Kuta, although it's a more pleasant stroll along the beach.

The main forms of public transport on Bali are the cheap buses, and bemos that run on more or less set routes within or between towns. If you want your own transport, you can charter a bemo or rent a car, motorcycle or bicycle. (We rent a motorbike. It is easier to navigate through the intense traffic.) The Balinese drive on the left, use their horns a lot, and give way to traffic pulling onto the road. Tourist shuttle buses running between the major tourist centres are more expensive than public transport, but are also more comfortable, and convenient.

View Bali Travel Photos in Yoga Bound's Bali Photo Gallery.

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